Sukhothai

Sukhothai (สุโขทัย) is a small city (population 35,713) which serves as the capital of Sukhothai Province, in lower Northern Thailand. The name translates as "the dawn of happiness".

Understand

The city is a popular tourist destination because it is located near the ruins of the ancient city of Sukhothai, which was the Thai capital during the 13th Century A.D.

Get in

Sukothai only has a small bus station, but the city can be easily reached from the North, South, East and West.

From Mae Sot:

Minibuses run regularly from the station behind the market. The journey takes about 3 hours, passing through Tak on the way. 130 baht.

From Phitsanulok: Frequent buses operate from the main bus terminal and take about 1 hour for the 58 km trip.

From Bangkok: There are direct buses from Bangkok, but to avoid a long uncomfortable ride, take the (express) train (8 hours) to Phitsanulok and go by bus from there (1 hour).

From Chiang Mai: Buses from the main bus terminal take about 4 hours. The cheaper local buses make many stops and take about 5 hours.

Get around

The best way to see the ruins in the Sukhotai National Historic Park is by bicycle. These can be rented from a shop opposite from the main park entrance.

The purple #1 songthaew travels to and from the bus station, which is about 3 km out of town. They run the length of Thanon Charodwithitong. The fare is 10 baht.

The large blue songthaew to Old Sukhothai leaves from a bus stop on Thanon Charodwithitong about 100 meters west of the bridge. It stops about 750 meters from the entrance to the central zone of the historic park. Fare: 20 baht.

See

• Old Sukhothai (Sukhothai Muang Kao)

Located 12 km to the west of today's Sukhothai, this was the capital of the Sukhothai Kingdom from 1238 to 1438 and contains many ruins from that period. Its importance has been internationally recognised and it is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The old city is a popular tourist attraction, and the site has seen much restoration since the 1960s. It is well maintained, exceptionally clean and well furnished with vendors, though with only a minimum of touts. The heavily restoration is worth noting, since with some ruins and Buddha figures it can lead to a feeling that it is a little over-sanitised, especially in the central zone. The other zones are much less "restored" and trips down unmarked tracks can lead to ruins in their untouched state.

The whole site covers an area of approximately 70 square kilometres and is divided into 5 zones. The central zone contains the majority of the ruins and a museum. Admission is 40 baht (6 am to 6 pm) plus extra for vehicles, including bicycles. Maps can be bought at the ticket office for 3 baht. The other zones (north, east, south and west) have separate fees of 30 baht. Bicycles are the favoured mode of transport, though it is perfectly feasible to walk around the central and northern zones in 6 hours or so. Bicycles are available for rental at numerous places near the songthaew stop. There is also a 20 baht guided tour by electric tram available.

• Central zone - It contains 11 ruins in 3 square kilometres, interspersed with moats, lakes and bridges to some island-bound ruins. Mat Mahathat is one of the most spectacular, with a large seated Buddha figure set amongst the pillars of a now ruined sala, and a central chedi flanked by two standing Buddha figures. Wat Sra Sri also has a large chedi and Buddha figure, but is reached by a bridge to the island. There are some nice views from the other side of the lake.

• North zone - Wat Phra Phai Luang contains the remains of a number of buildings plus a large prang with stucco reliefs. More impressive is Wat Sri Chum, which contains a massive seated Buddha figure peering through an opening in its enclosure. Look for a stairway on the left as you enter the enclosure; it leads up and behind the buddha image, though the passage is not always open.

Do

Rent a bike and explore the ruins of Old Sukhothai.

Visit the park at sunrise and admire the Buddha figures in the orange glow of the morning sun.

Pay a visit to the ruins at Si Satchanalai Historic Park, 55 km from new Sukhothai.

Walk around the fresh market (In new Sukhothai) in the early morning and try the tastes of many kinds of local food Sukhothai people like to have e. g. sticky rice with deep fried pork, sweet deep fried beef or spicy pork salad wraped with the banana leaf.

Rent a motorbike in new Sukhothai and appreciate the local life style

Have "Sukhothai" Noodle!! - It's a must

Eat

• Poo and Kung, Thanon Charodvithitong. This is a Belgian run restaurant offering Thai and Western food and a wide selection of cocktails. From 30 baht for main courses.

• Chopper Bar, Thanon Pravetnakorn. A rooftop restaurant and bar with good service, live acoustic guitar music, and Thai and Western menu. From 40 baht for main course.

• Sukhothai Night Market, There are varieties of local food that you can find in the night market in new Sukhothai. The night market is called "To-rung", it also covers the area that the food stolls are along "Rachathani" temple's fence.

• Kru Eew, One of Sukhothai noodle restaurants in new Sukhothai, there are not only Sukhothai noodle but also Sukhothai style padthai, vietnamese food, dessert, etc. The restaurant is only opened in the day time which mainly serves for brunch and lunch.

• Fueng Far, The restaurant that mainly serves for dinner. It could also be a drinking place which ou can enjoy sipping beer by the "Yom" river. The food is called "Fish food" - the plenty of Sukhothai local fish (Pla) dish especially spicy dishes e.g. Tom Yom Hua Pla (Fish head tom yum), Look Chin Pla Krai Luak Jim ('Pla Krai' - one type of fish, it's the Pla Krai fish ball boil and dip with spicy suace - recommended), Kob phat kra pao (Stir fried basil frog). The restaurant is located by the Yom River, it takes 1 minute by motor bike from the beginning of the "Wat Ku Ha Suwan" Soi. Well, it is not recommended you to walk there because it is quite dark.

Buy

In sukhothai Historical Park

A Buddha figure at the market at the historical park. They are available in all historic styles, sizes and materials. Remember that it is considered bad luck to buy a Buddha for yourself, so you should be buying gifts!

In New Sukhothai

Thongchai Wittayu: The biggest electronic store selling electronic stuff which could offer much better price than the department stores and considered the best price in all over Sukhothai. The products are digital cameras, memory cards, mp3, etc. You could only ask around when you are hanging out in new Sukhothai, most of people know the store.

Sleep

Budget

• Yupa, Thanon Pravetnakorn. This is a teak house with a small number of basic rooms and some dorm beds. With fans, cold water and shared bathrooms, these are good value at the low price of 120 baht.

• TR Guest House, Outside Thailand: +66-55-611-663; Inside Thailand: 055-611-663 and 084-049-9445 Mobile, . Family run this guest house, They have rooms with fan and air condition and bungalows with fan. All with private shower and toilet. Prices from 150 - 450 Baht. Call a head for free pick up. Also offer "Free internet & WiFi", Motorbike for rent.

• Baan Thai, Thanon Pravetnakorn. This is a typical guest-house, with a restaurant and a number of rooms available. Rooms contain a fan and share a bathroom, with hot water available. 150 baht a night.

Mid range

• Orchid Hibiscus Guest House, 407/2, Old City Sukothai, Tel: +66 55 633 284. A small guest house with clean rooms, a swimming pool and Italian/Thai owners. It is in biking distance to the old city, but there are only two restaurants in walking distance of the hotel! The owner is very helpful, but you are never quite sure if he understands your request. The pool, breakfast and the garden make up for this..

• Lotus Village, 170 Ratchathanee Street, +66 55 621 484, . A cozy boutique hotel in the heart of Sukhothai. All rooms are in Thai style teak houses with verandas, surrounded by fish ponds, lotus flowers and beautiful tropical gardens. The lobby is an excellent place to relax and read a large selection of magazines, books and newspapers. Other services include local transport, travel bookings, cars with driver, and guides in French and English.

• Mountain view guest house, 23/3 moo8 maung kao maung, tel + 66 55 601111, mobile +66 [0] 817404449. Guest house with 6 rooms with swimming pool including breakfast owners very helpful and will take you to and from the historical park which is 4 km away.